I hate being a tourist.
All that
SIGHTseeing! Traipsing around with a guide book (ereader) clutched in one sweaty paw, camera(phone) in the other, ticking things off on a little mental list against what you've read (on the internet) are the 'must do's', ugh. It makes me feel... fretful...
So, what exactly am I DOING here in Taiwan? You may be excused for wondering. Well, the idea was to knuckle down and get a job, and thus a resident's permit, as quickly as possible. Maybe actually live somewhere for more than five minutes. Oh and revive my Chinese, attempt to learn some more, bla bla bla. There wasn't supposed to be very much backpacking-y, touristy, bumming around for weeks on end, nonsense.
However, its becoming clear that the employment opportunities for a non-bilingual Brit with zero teaching experience, who wants a job that is NOT reported all over the internet to be horrendous, are somewhat limited. I've not given up hope just yet, but I have applied for everything currently available. I'm just waiting to hear about interviews and therefore have rather a lot of time on my hands.
To sightsee.
Gah!
So, after an initial mental tussle between my hatred of touristing plus the need to be frugal, versus the niggling feeling I should be making the most of my time here, I hit upon the following compromise: I would do something touristy every OTHER day (ish). In between lying around aircon-bathing, learning traditional characters, eating red bean ice lollies and walking the dogs.
Touristy, that is, on my terms. Temples are out - once you've seen one you've seen 'em all, in my opinion, and I've seen at least two. Shopping can get lost, since my 'one small bag' is already cripplingly heavy. And the only camera I have with me is the crap one on my rather conspicuous tablet, so photo sessions are unappealing Largely, therefore, I've just been wandering around Gawping At Art And Shit, strolling through parks, people-watching (love people-watching! Okay, it's mostly clothes-watching if i'm honest) and, well, stuffing my face.
In case you care to read of such things, then, here is a round-up of the 'must-dos' I've done so far:
National Palace Museum
As previously mentioned, this houses a treasure trove of Chinese antiquities brought by the Nationalists when they fled the mainland in 1949. China wants em back! Taiwan says - sure, just so long as you recognise us as an independant nation! Stalemate.
It was okay. I liked the snuffboxes and the ancient representations of animals, they were ace! Also the shop was quite good lol. No photos allowed inside, so here's one of the outside:
 |
I like that man's face |
Shida Night Market
Foodstuffs, many many foodstuffs, a bewildering array of signs with a million unreadable traditional characters all swirling at you until your brain explodes! I had a spring onion pancake thing and a waffly thing, but I feel like I could have done better if I'd just known what the hell was going on. No pics cuz, well, it was raining cats and dogs (a frequent occurence here) and I only have so many hands dammit! Here's someone else's photo:
 |
See it was raining when they went too! Credit: randomwire.com |
Taipei Fine Art Museum and Expo Park
This was BRILLIANT. Just the kind of art I lik -modern but not toooo modern. And English translations of everything so I could get an idea of what it was all about. There were four floors each with different displays and installations, all of which were awesome, but the main exhibition was a gigantic retrospective of the work of
Dean-E Mei, a Tawainese artist, from 1976 to the present day. Since Mei's work deals with his Taiwanese identity and the modern history of Taiwan, I learned so much just from this one exhibition. Plus his work is really cool! I came away feeling really inspired and actually did some art of my own, which is a shamefully rare occurence considering how much I enjoy it.
Again, no pics allowed inside, so here are some of the Expo Park across the way,
Su Ho Paper Museum
Small but beautifully designed. Preserved old guy's paper making workshop, exhibition of paper art, history of paper displays and papermaking classes. Oh and some handmade paper products for sale. Papery! Best thing though right was the nearby dumpling takeaway place, POTSTICKERS OMG. They did a fish one that was soooooooooo good.
But yeah, paper!
No pics (sensing a theme here?) just cuz I was too embarrassed basically. The whole place was so immaculate and beautiful I didnt want to, like... soil it with such crude touristic behaviours.
Taipei 101
No embarrassment here! This place is a crude touristic mecca!
 |
The towering might of 101 |
Taipei 101 (it has 101 floors) WAS the tallest building in the world until 2010, when those pesky folks in Dubai built the Burj Khalifa. How dare they?! It has a large shopping mall at the base full of security guards and snooty designery shops like Chanel. Which was shiny, intimidating and gross, as such things tend to be.
By the time I arrived a sunny early morning had become a grey day with limited visibility, but to be honest that's 90% of days in Taipei so I just went up anyway. The observation deck is on the 89th floor and there is a crazy highspeed lift that takes you there with a magical glittery soundtrack and lights. It was kinda exciting, despite the cheesiness. Also, your ears pop.
At first I thought I should really have waited for a day with better weather:
But then the rain eased and I managed to get some 'atmospheric' fog-ridden viewing in:
The centre of the building has a big golden 'damper' (pendulum) that helps keep the building stable in monsoons, earthquakes etc.
Which they've obviously made into a cute, loveable character called the Damper Baby
Finally, on the way out there was an opportunity to take a nice selfie in a mirrored corridor of projected landscapes:
I wasn't the only one doing it, I swear!
And thus ends the photoshoot, except for one of this other building across the street that I thought was also pretty cool:
Phew!
I have actually done some other stuff, but I think that's enough for one sitting don't you? Yes'm. Time for another red bean ice-lolly now surely.
Nom nom nom.